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Interview with
Nicholas Daley
about Fashion needs Music

Interview with
Nicholas Daley
about Fashion needs Music


 

Collection created through “jam sessions” with friends

 

Daley’s story of music and design goes back to his time at St. Martins. “I didn’t have any clear idea of how, but since before enrolling to St. Martins, I always wanted to make clothes to show my roots, emotions and my community by using fashion as a platform. I was attending a fashion course, but a huge amount of research was required in order to create your work. During my earlier years, works of Dennis Morris, the first successful black photographer, influenced me tremendously. The image of Don Letts and John Lydon of Sex Pistols visiting Jamaica left an impression on me. They were icons of subculture and were very avant-garde even in London. Through several connections, I was introduced to Don Letts and Denis Morris in person. From these encounters, a blurry image of my brand that I had in mind became more and more clear.”

 

When designing a collection today, Daley stays true to the core identity that was established back then. His creative process starts with deep research on a certain era and/or person. “I named my A/W2019 collection ‘Black Ark’ which is a studio name of a dub reggae producer Lee “Scratch” Perry. Dub music that came out of Black Ark influenced many genres of music including today’s electronic music. Its process of music making is close to engineering; customizing machines and reconstructing existing rhythms. I applied this approach to fashion by studying how Jamaican identity influenced the subculture scene from post-war England to today. The tops with big plaids in mohair are key items which were inspired from Lee “Scratch” Perry and Public Image Limited. As for denim, I used the British 12oz fabric in order to express industrial and deep impression”.
 
 
through fashion. This is why I had my friends like Cosmo Pyke, Puma Blue, Obong Jayar and Masur Brown collaborate with me. Rather than hiring real models, I believe that my design becomes more meaningful and cool by using unique people as models. I chose Working Mens Club located in East London as the venue for my show. It boasts over 100 years of history and is considered the epicenter of subculture. It can’t be left unmentioned in the history of British music. Artists such as Bob Marley, Joy Division, and new talents like DUDS have all performed there. All of these elements are layers that play important roles in building my brand.” The clothes created by Daley has a story to tell His philosophy brings like-minded people together; his brand is created through jam sessions with his friends.

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